Today we caught the bus into town to have a mooch around and to go to Hagley Park. We walked around the Arts Centre, looking at the arts and crafts shops, stopping at the Le Cafe situated there. It wasn’t the best lunch we’ve ever had, as we had to wait about an hour for our food. Lou enjoyed the attentions of a bird who chose the tree above her as the right place to go to the toilet., while we were sitting next to a spoiled American family.
After lunch we walked around the Botanic Gardens, admiring the huge trees, beautiful flowers and nice smelling rose garden. Lou fed the ducks by the River Avon, with some bread that she’d brought with us, and was soon surrounded by a teaming mass of ducks, who were so anxious to be fed that they clambered over her feet in an effort to get to the bits of bread first, pecking at and grabbing the feathers of any other bird that got there first.
We caught the bus home and spent some time updating the blog on line, doing some washing, and cooked a pepper and tomato sauce to have with pasta for tea.
Friday, December 28, 2007
Wednesday 26 December 2007. Day 127 Christchurch Meadow Park Top 10
Boxing Day and the good weather of yesterday has disappeared and left us with heavy rain, so we spend a good part of the day shut away in the manky old dining room which is the only place we get our laptop to pick up the wireless internet signal. Ieuan types up the blog, while Lou does research into the USA leg of our trip, so that we can get some parts booked up, car hire, accommodation etc. Lou also spends time sorting through photos.
Later we cook pasta and pesto for tea and sit at our Christmas plastic table cloth covered table, which had just about dried out from the earlier rain. Lou drinks some of her Pegasus Bay Chardonnay which is delicious.
Later we cook pasta and pesto for tea and sit at our Christmas plastic table cloth covered table, which had just about dried out from the earlier rain. Lou drinks some of her Pegasus Bay Chardonnay which is delicious.
Tuesday 25 December 2007. Day 126 Christchurch Meadow Park Top 10, Christmas Day in the sun!
Wake up about 9:30 and open our big box of Christmas presents! We get some nice bits and bobs from back home including some much appreciated Thorntons chocolates. After breakfast we watch our final episode of Ugly Betty (unfortunately we have to wait for the others to finish downloading), then lounge around in the sun reading our books and enjoying doing nothing. We have jacket potatoes for lunch along with some Marlborough Region fizzy. A post lunch sleep is then taken by Ieuan in the van whilst Lou sits outside.
Later we cook our proper Christmas dinner of kidney bean and potato curries, which we have with a bottle of Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir, whilst sitting outside enjoying the early evening sun. After a delicious fruit salad pudding we retire inside as it’s got a little cold, mail a few Christmas pics to our families, and then after such a strenuous day we retire to bed knackered.
NB Our site is next to the campsite spa, which seems to have had a non-stop stream of visitors going to it all day and evening. It sounds like someone is constantly running a vacuum cleaner in there.
Later we cook our proper Christmas dinner of kidney bean and potato curries, which we have with a bottle of Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir, whilst sitting outside enjoying the early evening sun. After a delicious fruit salad pudding we retire inside as it’s got a little cold, mail a few Christmas pics to our families, and then after such a strenuous day we retire to bed knackered.
NB Our site is next to the campsite spa, which seems to have had a non-stop stream of visitors going to it all day and evening. It sounds like someone is constantly running a vacuum cleaner in there.
Wednesday, December 26, 2007
Monday 24 December 2007. Day 125 Christchurch Meadow Park Top 10
Get up late and shower in the brand new, spotless facilities at the campsite, and then walk round to the nearby supermarket, where we do our shopping for the Christmas period. It’s nothing like the uncontrolled scrum that takes place on Christmas Eve in the UK. We get some lunch at the nearby manky Pizza Hut, where we are by far the oldest people there (and richest judging by the fact that most people have the ropey looking all you can eat for £3 buffet).
In the afternoon after unnecessarily (according to Lou) lugging several huge bottles of water home we catch the bus into the city. The city centre is dominated by the cathedral and cathedral square, which we wandered round, popping in a few gift shops, before Ieuan decides to go into the barber to get his long mop of hair cut off. He has a bit of a traumatic experience with an apparently drunk, heavy handed hairdresser, who actually does quite a good job. We look in a few of the millions of outdoor shops before we catch the bus back home. We cook spag bol for tea and watch 2 episodes of Ugly Betty before retiring to bed.
In the afternoon after unnecessarily (according to Lou) lugging several huge bottles of water home we catch the bus into the city. The city centre is dominated by the cathedral and cathedral square, which we wandered round, popping in a few gift shops, before Ieuan decides to go into the barber to get his long mop of hair cut off. He has a bit of a traumatic experience with an apparently drunk, heavy handed hairdresser, who actually does quite a good job. We look in a few of the millions of outdoor shops before we catch the bus back home. We cook spag bol for tea and watch 2 episodes of Ugly Betty before retiring to bed.
Sunday 23 December 2007. Day 124 Greymouth Seaside Top 10 Holiday Park
Left the campsite and headed into town to go to the Monteiths Brewery (famous local beer) but it didn’t open until 11:30 (it was only 10:30) so we went to look at the flood defence walls built in 1990 to protect the city from the constant threat of flooding from the Grey River which backs up when there are high seas (Extremely bad floods occurred in 1988). Ieuan was keen to see them as Billy Connolly stopped to see them during his World Tour of NZ.
We then left Greymouth and headed towards Hanmer Springs via the Lewis Pass. Once we reached the turn off we decided to push straight on to Christchurch instead. After another 30kms or so we stop for lunch in the Balmoral Recreation Reserve. Back on the road we stopped for a drink at the ‘Famous Haurari Hotel’ from our book of Classic Kiwi Pubs. There were several bikers there, but we didn’t see the ghost that was reputed to be there.
Continuing on from there, we stopped at Pegasus Bay Winery as recommended by Ieuan’s uncle, where we tasted some nice wines, before purchasing our favourites, from the son of the owners, who does all their marketing plus a day a week on cellar door duty. We arrived in Christchurch at about 5pm and set up camp at the very nice campsite that we will be staying at for Christmas. Ieuan cooked chicken curry for tea, while Lou fed the ducks.
We then left Greymouth and headed towards Hanmer Springs via the Lewis Pass. Once we reached the turn off we decided to push straight on to Christchurch instead. After another 30kms or so we stop for lunch in the Balmoral Recreation Reserve. Back on the road we stopped for a drink at the ‘Famous Haurari Hotel’ from our book of Classic Kiwi Pubs. There were several bikers there, but we didn’t see the ghost that was reputed to be there.
Continuing on from there, we stopped at Pegasus Bay Winery as recommended by Ieuan’s uncle, where we tasted some nice wines, before purchasing our favourites, from the son of the owners, who does all their marketing plus a day a week on cellar door duty. We arrived in Christchurch at about 5pm and set up camp at the very nice campsite that we will be staying at for Christmas. Ieuan cooked chicken curry for tea, while Lou fed the ducks.
Saturday 22 December 2007. Day 123 West Port Seal Colony Top 10 Holiday Park
Woke up late and left the campsite at about 11am. Drove to the seal colony at Cape Foulwind, where we watched and smelled the seals on the rocks below. They were sleeping, fighting, swimming and hiding in the seaweed, with lots of babies lying around camouflaged against the rocks. We drove on towards Greymouth, along a beautiful scenic coast road, full of unspoilt, empty pristine white beaches, breaking waves and impressive coastal cliffs. We stopped at the Pancake Rocks and blowhole and spent some time looking at the rock formations and birds on the nearby rock, then had some lunch at the Pancake Rock Cafe, purchased some postcards and headed off once again.
As we approached Greymouth we turned left and headed inland for 30 or so km to visit the infamous pub at Blackball known as 'Formerly The Blackball Hilton' after the Hilton chain took a little too much interest in this small town pub. Had a nice pint of Monteiths Black.
Arrived in Greymouth in the late afternoon, stopping at the supermarket on the way to our beach side campsite. Choose our site (normally they are allocated), then head through the dunes down to the beach for a walk and a paddle in the sea. Lou collects some nice granite pebbles. Back at the van we make pasta with pesto for tea, and use the laptop as the wireless connection is quite cheap here $10 for 24 hours, compared to $50 for 20 hours last night.
As we approached Greymouth we turned left and headed inland for 30 or so km to visit the infamous pub at Blackball known as 'Formerly The Blackball Hilton' after the Hilton chain took a little too much interest in this small town pub. Had a nice pint of Monteiths Black.
Arrived in Greymouth in the late afternoon, stopping at the supermarket on the way to our beach side campsite. Choose our site (normally they are allocated), then head through the dunes down to the beach for a walk and a paddle in the sea. Lou collects some nice granite pebbles. Back at the van we make pasta with pesto for tea, and use the laptop as the wireless connection is quite cheap here $10 for 24 hours, compared to $50 for 20 hours last night.
Friday 21 December 2007. Day 122 Motueka Top 10 Holiday Park
Left Motueka to head back to Nelson to do a few bits and bobs. We phone Maui about a crack in the windscreen that has been steadily growing and arrange to take it in to a windscreen repair place. Although they agree that it needs replacing however, they also confirm that there is no replacement available on the whole of the South Island. They tell us not to worry because it is safety glass and won’t crack completely, so we head off.
After lunch and some chores in Nelson and a chance encounter with Ieuan’s cousin again, we leave for the 220km journey to Westport, which we are told will take 5 to 6 hours. We manage to overtake a number of slow coaches which hold us up and make the half way point of Murchison in good time. We stop just past the town at the longest swing bridge in New Zealand, walking over it and round a short circular walk across the fault line along which the earth moved in the 1929 earthquake (which destroyed much of Nelson College at a time when Ieuan’s grandfather was a pupil, although Ieuan knew nothing of this till now).
Journeying onwards to Westport where we arrive at about 6pm (so much for the travel time prediction, it’s taken 3.5 hours of which we were stationary for 30 minutes), set up camp and then head down to the beach past a field of cows. We cook jacket potatoes and beans for tea, the potatoes seeming to take forever to cook, exploding all over the inside of the microwave in the process.
After lunch and some chores in Nelson and a chance encounter with Ieuan’s cousin again, we leave for the 220km journey to Westport, which we are told will take 5 to 6 hours. We manage to overtake a number of slow coaches which hold us up and make the half way point of Murchison in good time. We stop just past the town at the longest swing bridge in New Zealand, walking over it and round a short circular walk across the fault line along which the earth moved in the 1929 earthquake (which destroyed much of Nelson College at a time when Ieuan’s grandfather was a pupil, although Ieuan knew nothing of this till now).
Journeying onwards to Westport where we arrive at about 6pm (so much for the travel time prediction, it’s taken 3.5 hours of which we were stationary for 30 minutes), set up camp and then head down to the beach past a field of cows. We cook jacket potatoes and beans for tea, the potatoes seeming to take forever to cook, exploding all over the inside of the microwave in the process.
Thursday 20 December 2007. Day 121 Nelson City Holiday Park
We leave the campsite at 10am and drive via Black Street (Stoke) to look at the house where Ieuan’s granddad used to live. From there we push on to Kauteriteri to meet Stella. About half way there we get frantically overtaken and recognised the number plate that Stella calls cheeky, CKY, on the car in front, Stella has caught us up! We get to Kauteriteri at about 11:30 and help Stella carry her huge tent down to the beach to wait for the water taxi.
A bumpy 30 minute ride later, after passing ‘split apple rock’, we are deposited at Glasgow’s Bay, next to Torrent Bay in the Abel Tasman National Park. We had just been privileged to watch some Germans jump off the boat without rolling their trousers up (despite being told to do so by the driver) and get rather wet as they waded up to the beach.
Stella gives us a tour of the bay, including showing us the beach, and the small island just off shore called Balloon Island, and then the house tucked away behind the trees which was built by Jeremy’s brother. The old house built for Ieuan’s great, great grandparents is still there but is now a bit dilapidated and is used for storage. An hour later after kindly providing lunch, Stella catches the water taxi back home and we spend a couple of hours mooching around, including re-enacting a scene depicted in a painting Ieuan has of his teenage grandfather sitting on the beach working on his sailing boat (a prop that unfortunately we don’t have). After enjoying the sun and solitude, we catch the water taxi back at 4pm, then drive half an hour down the road to the campsite at Motueka, stopping along the way to get some organic basil and cucumbers.
A bumpy 30 minute ride later, after passing ‘split apple rock’, we are deposited at Glasgow’s Bay, next to Torrent Bay in the Abel Tasman National Park. We had just been privileged to watch some Germans jump off the boat without rolling their trousers up (despite being told to do so by the driver) and get rather wet as they waded up to the beach.
Stella gives us a tour of the bay, including showing us the beach, and the small island just off shore called Balloon Island, and then the house tucked away behind the trees which was built by Jeremy’s brother. The old house built for Ieuan’s great, great grandparents is still there but is now a bit dilapidated and is used for storage. An hour later after kindly providing lunch, Stella catches the water taxi back home and we spend a couple of hours mooching around, including re-enacting a scene depicted in a painting Ieuan has of his teenage grandfather sitting on the beach working on his sailing boat (a prop that unfortunately we don’t have). After enjoying the sun and solitude, we catch the water taxi back at 4pm, then drive half an hour down the road to the campsite at Motueka, stopping along the way to get some organic basil and cucumbers.
Wednesday 19 December 2007. Day 120 Nelson City Holiday Park
We walk into Nelson to do a spot of shopping and to have some lunch. Ieuan rings his cousin Jeremy who lives in Nelson and is a partner at Glasgow Harley solicitors, and we arrange to meet him at his office for a drink that night at 6pm. Having just been to Woolworths supermarket we lug all our shopping there and have a drink with him and his colleagues, arranging to go around to his house later so that we can arrange to get keys to Ieuan’s grandfather’s old holiday home in Torrent Bay in the Abel Tasman National Park.
We get there for about 9pm, and have tea and cake and chat to Jeremy and Stella his wife, who offers to take us to Glasgow Bay tomorrow to see it, which is very nice of her. We make a plan to meet at the ferry at 11:45. Stella tells Lou lots about her and her family while Ieuan talks to Jeremy. We leave at 10:30 and walk back to the campsite, stopping on the way to take some pictures of the houses perched high on the hillside on the way.
We get there for about 9pm, and have tea and cake and chat to Jeremy and Stella his wife, who offers to take us to Glasgow Bay tomorrow to see it, which is very nice of her. We make a plan to meet at the ferry at 11:45. Stella tells Lou lots about her and her family while Ieuan talks to Jeremy. We leave at 10:30 and walk back to the campsite, stopping on the way to take some pictures of the houses perched high on the hillside on the way.
Tuesday 18 December 2007. Day 119 Richmond Top 10 Holiday Park, Nelson
Wake up in the pouring rain having heard it raining constantly through the night. We wait as late as possible to have a shower, hoping that the rain might ease, which it doesn’t, so we head to investigate the ‘unisex’ showers. Find some individual rooms with a shower and toilet in, so we use these.
Head into Nelson, where we spend ages looking for a space big enough for the camper, eventually finding a 2 hour spot on the outskirts of town. We browse some local shops, stopping at a rare books shop, where Ieuan opens the first book he picks up, only to find a picture of one of his relatives in it, so we decide to buy in.
We stop at a cafe for lunch where Ieuan had a nice lamb salad, then after a bit more shopping we headed to the Museum of Wearable Art. We wandered around the classic car collection which also contained a few motorbikes (a number of Bimotas and a Ducati and an RC30), and the wearable art fashion show, which was quite interesting. Had a cup of tea in the cafe, watching the rain continue to pour down outside, before purchasing a few souvenirs from the gift shop. Left there and headed to Nelson City campsite where we set up camp for the next 2 nights. Lou got in early at the incredibly busy laundry room, whilst Ieuan cooked tea.
Head into Nelson, where we spend ages looking for a space big enough for the camper, eventually finding a 2 hour spot on the outskirts of town. We browse some local shops, stopping at a rare books shop, where Ieuan opens the first book he picks up, only to find a picture of one of his relatives in it, so we decide to buy in.
We stop at a cafe for lunch where Ieuan had a nice lamb salad, then after a bit more shopping we headed to the Museum of Wearable Art. We wandered around the classic car collection which also contained a few motorbikes (a number of Bimotas and a Ducati and an RC30), and the wearable art fashion show, which was quite interesting. Had a cup of tea in the cafe, watching the rain continue to pour down outside, before purchasing a few souvenirs from the gift shop. Left there and headed to Nelson City campsite where we set up camp for the next 2 nights. Lou got in early at the incredibly busy laundry room, whilst Ieuan cooked tea.
Monday 17 December 2007. Day 118 Top 10 Hutt Park, Lower Hutt, Wellington
Up early to empty the waste tanks and head down to the Interislander ferry terminal. We check in and get in the queue which seems to be rather full of campers considering we are quite early, before being loaded on. The journey is pretty calm, with some really beautiful views over Wellington, the surrounding hills and mountains, and, once we reach the South Island, the Marlborough Sounds. We stand out on deck watching Wellington disappear into the distance and eye the inappropriately dressed people (tiny shorts/shirts and suit jackets) as well as spotting a lookalike of our mad neighbour, Mad Sheila.
Three hours after setting casting off we arrive at Picton and take the scenic route to Nelson. After an hour of pleasant driving round the beautiful coastline we hit a road closed sign, as there has apparently been an accident up ahead. We settle in to the nearby pub to wait until the road is reopened, as the alternative route means a detour of several hundred kilometres. In the Trout pub we talk to a local who coincidentally had been left a sum of money by his granddad which was held for him by the solicitors firm of which Ieuan’s relatives have been partners for 3 generations in Nelson. After an hour or so we are able to get back on our way, in a convoy of campers, cars and lorries around the hilly roads to Nelson. Arrive in Richmond at the Top 10, go to the supermarket and further our market research into takeaway pizzas by getting Pizza Hut pizzas for tea.
Three hours after setting casting off we arrive at Picton and take the scenic route to Nelson. After an hour of pleasant driving round the beautiful coastline we hit a road closed sign, as there has apparently been an accident up ahead. We settle in to the nearby pub to wait until the road is reopened, as the alternative route means a detour of several hundred kilometres. In the Trout pub we talk to a local who coincidentally had been left a sum of money by his granddad which was held for him by the solicitors firm of which Ieuan’s relatives have been partners for 3 generations in Nelson. After an hour or so we are able to get back on our way, in a convoy of campers, cars and lorries around the hilly roads to Nelson. Arrive in Richmond at the Top 10, go to the supermarket and further our market research into takeaway pizzas by getting Pizza Hut pizzas for tea.
Sunday 16 December 2007. Day 117 Top 10 Hutt Park, Lower Hutt, Wellington
Get up and feed the ever hungry ducks that appear outside at van. Use the computer to update the blog and to pick out some pictures to post alongside our daily drivel. Ieuan receives an early Christmas present, a Vaude rucksack. Lou washes up and makes lunch whilst Ieuan furiously types up more blog. The ducks desert us for another campervan, not even coming back at lunchtime when due to the lack of food supplies, Lou decides to tuck in to the loaf of bread she bought to fed them, along with her soup.
In the afternoon we plan the rest of our trip around the South Island and change our Interislander ferry booking to fit in. Tea consists of reheated curry left over from Friday night. Lou feeds the ducks again, although they don’t appear that hungry. Ieuan stays up very late to make use of our wireless broadband to upload all pictures we have chosen for the blog.
In the afternoon we plan the rest of our trip around the South Island and change our Interislander ferry booking to fit in. Tea consists of reheated curry left over from Friday night. Lou feeds the ducks again, although they don’t appear that hungry. Ieuan stays up very late to make use of our wireless broadband to upload all pictures we have chosen for the blog.
Saturday 15 December 2007. Day 117 Top 10 Hutt Park, Lower Hutt, Wellington
Get up use the computer, then walk to the local train station half an hour away at Woburn to catch the train into town. Lou thinks it may be slightly less painful than the bus journey we undertook yesterday.
We wander round the shops, then head over to the Te Papa museum, the national museum of NZ. Ieuan wants to look at the John Britten bike there, plus we have a look at the special Whale Exhibition which is currently on. Have some lunch there and peruse the gift shop, buying some nice books before moving on. In the afternoon we catch the cable railway up to the botanical gardens, where we can look right out over Wellington Harbour and the surrounding area, our campsite on the far side of the bay isn’t quite visible. After Lou insisting that we photograph ourselves in the setting ‘like drunkards’ we head back down and go to look at some of the nearby restaurants to find somewhere to have tea. We end up at an Indian place which is ok, and Lou has a very hot chicken dish! The manager tells us that he’s from Leicester as are most of the kitchen staff.
We catch the bus home waiting half an hour for a bus which was due in 5 minutes, Lou insisting that we nearly miss it as she goes to the toilet at the crucial moment.
We wander round the shops, then head over to the Te Papa museum, the national museum of NZ. Ieuan wants to look at the John Britten bike there, plus we have a look at the special Whale Exhibition which is currently on. Have some lunch there and peruse the gift shop, buying some nice books before moving on. In the afternoon we catch the cable railway up to the botanical gardens, where we can look right out over Wellington Harbour and the surrounding area, our campsite on the far side of the bay isn’t quite visible. After Lou insisting that we photograph ourselves in the setting ‘like drunkards’ we head back down and go to look at some of the nearby restaurants to find somewhere to have tea. We end up at an Indian place which is ok, and Lou has a very hot chicken dish! The manager tells us that he’s from Leicester as are most of the kitchen staff.
We catch the bus home waiting half an hour for a bus which was due in 5 minutes, Lou insisting that we nearly miss it as she goes to the toilet at the crucial moment.
Friday 14 December 2007. Day 116 Top 10 Hutt Park, Lower Hutt, Wellington
Spent the morning using the laptop and reading. Caught the bus into Wellington at lunchtime which seemed to take a long and circuitous route around all the neighbouring suburbs before eventually reaching town half an hour later.
Had some lunch at a nice cafe in a little arcade, then spend an hour or two shopping and looking around. Lou bought a fleece blanket for the bed, plus a few dvds, some maps and cds. Lou visited a public toilet and got enveloped in a huge cloud of hash smoke that seemed to be present there.
Caught the bus home, seemed to be more direct as we only made about 10 stops instead of 30. Bus driver was very nice and checked we knew our way back to the campsite when we got off the bus. Ieuan cooked Kidney bean and potato curries for tea, while Lou did some ‘work’ on photos for the blog, realising in the process that 1800 pics had been wiped off a memory card somehow. Luckily Ieuan managed to recover them, so he was no longer to blame for this misdemeanour!
Had some lunch at a nice cafe in a little arcade, then spend an hour or two shopping and looking around. Lou bought a fleece blanket for the bed, plus a few dvds, some maps and cds. Lou visited a public toilet and got enveloped in a huge cloud of hash smoke that seemed to be present there.
Caught the bus home, seemed to be more direct as we only made about 10 stops instead of 30. Bus driver was very nice and checked we knew our way back to the campsite when we got off the bus. Ieuan cooked Kidney bean and potato curries for tea, while Lou did some ‘work’ on photos for the blog, realising in the process that 1800 pics had been wiped off a memory card somehow. Luckily Ieuan managed to recover them, so he was no longer to blame for this misdemeanour!
Thursday 13 December 2007. Day 115 Waitomo Caves Top 10
Left the campsite and went to the visitor information across the road, where we bought a few souvenirs from the attached gift shop, as well as a map detailing a few short walks in the area. Drove about 2.5 kms further along the road, so that we could do one of the 45 minute walks past the Ruakuri Cave and through a natural tunnel, which was pretty good.
Back at the van, we headed south to Wanganui following a convoy of slow coaches around the windy hilly roads alongside beautiful green hills, mountains and gorges. After Wanganui we carried on towards Wellington doing the journey in good time, arriving at about 7:30pm. It took some time to find the campsite since the signs we followed seemed to take us round in a circle.
Ordered takeaway pizza to be delivered from ‘Hell’s Pizza’ as we were too tired to cook. Pizza’s arrived in good time, but we discovered once the delivery boy had gone that Ieuan’s pizza wasn’t as requested, so we had to wait a further half hour while this mistake was corrected.
Back at the van, we headed south to Wanganui following a convoy of slow coaches around the windy hilly roads alongside beautiful green hills, mountains and gorges. After Wanganui we carried on towards Wellington doing the journey in good time, arriving at about 7:30pm. It took some time to find the campsite since the signs we followed seemed to take us round in a circle.
Ordered takeaway pizza to be delivered from ‘Hell’s Pizza’ as we were too tired to cook. Pizza’s arrived in good time, but we discovered once the delivery boy had gone that Ieuan’s pizza wasn’t as requested, so we had to wait a further half hour while this mistake was corrected.
Wednesday 12 December 2007. Day 114 Northshore Campsite, Auckland
Packed up and headed just past the city centre to Sylvia Park to get the train into the city centre. Hoped to pick up a new mobile phone sent by Lou’s mum to replace Ieuan’s water damaged one, but unfortunately it hadn’t arrived yet. We arrange for it to be sent on to Nelson when it does arrive, and head back out of town. Do a spot of shopping at Sylvia Park, buying Office software for the laptop and have lunch at Nando’s.
Lou phone’s the Maui office about our leaky windscreen and they ask us to take the van back to the depot, which we then do. When we get there, the concierge Jose is very sympathetic to all the problems we have had and tells us to leave it with him. Lou explains that we know a new model van has just come back and that she wondered if it might be possible to swap to that one given the problems that we’ve had. About half an hour later Jose is back and tells us to come with him to see something, he shows us a very new van and says ours will take 4 hours to fix so we can have this one. Good job Jose! Grinning from ear to ear we move all our stuff across, jump in our shiny, clean and fully working new van and set off to Waitomo Caves Top 10 campsite, some 200kms away.
Arrived there and spent so long sorting out the van that when we went for tea at the local pizzeria we found it was shut, along with everywhere else in the vicinity, so we had jacket potato and beans (english recipe) for tea.
Lou phone’s the Maui office about our leaky windscreen and they ask us to take the van back to the depot, which we then do. When we get there, the concierge Jose is very sympathetic to all the problems we have had and tells us to leave it with him. Lou explains that we know a new model van has just come back and that she wondered if it might be possible to swap to that one given the problems that we’ve had. About half an hour later Jose is back and tells us to come with him to see something, he shows us a very new van and says ours will take 4 hours to fix so we can have this one. Good job Jose! Grinning from ear to ear we move all our stuff across, jump in our shiny, clean and fully working new van and set off to Waitomo Caves Top 10 campsite, some 200kms away.
Arrived there and spent so long sorting out the van that when we went for tea at the local pizzeria we found it was shut, along with everywhere else in the vicinity, so we had jacket potato and beans (english recipe) for tea.
Tuesday 11 December 2007. Day 113 Kauri Coast Top10
Leave the campsite and head towards Auckland, stopping en route at Sheepworld, where the first people we see are the Dutch couple who were camping next to a few days ago. We had some lunch in the Black Sheep cafe before looking at the menagerie of animals in the farm – including pigs, goats, alpacas, rabbits, deer, horses and guinea pigs. Lou attempted to talk to the pigs by snorting loudly, not realising it wasn’t Ieuan standing behind her! We went to watch an hour show featuring 2 funny sheep dogs, one which was allegedly noisy and stupid and one quiet and clever, some sheep rounding up, and some sheep shearing. At the end of the show we were offered the opportunity to feed the lambs, so about 10 people including Lou sat on a low step with a bottle of milk. The baby lambs came running in from the back when they were released and somehow the lamb that Lou got turned out to be a baby goat!! At least it was a bit cleaner than the grubby lambs.
Afterwards we headed onward and arrived at the ex Top 10 campsite, the Top 1 Northshore Campsite which was quite nice and we did some washing, losing about $8 in a dodgy dryer (but then got it back). Lou continuously peered over at the new Maui van opposite, watching jealously from our beaten up old banger. Cooked pepper and tomato sauce (narrowly avoided burning the lot) for tea and went to bed.
Afterwards we headed onward and arrived at the ex Top 10 campsite, the Top 1 Northshore Campsite which was quite nice and we did some washing, losing about $8 in a dodgy dryer (but then got it back). Lou continuously peered over at the new Maui van opposite, watching jealously from our beaten up old banger. Cooked pepper and tomato sauce (narrowly avoided burning the lot) for tea and went to bed.
Monday 10 December 2007. Day 112 Russell Top10 Holiday Park
We leave Russell today (still in the rain) and drive to Paihai, stopping at the Waitangi Treaty House and grounds. We walk around the house, as well as a Maori meeting house and a huge Maori canoe. Have lunch at the cafe, sausage and mash, a bean timbale with kumara cakes (kumara is a sweet potato), both of which were a bit poncey but ok.
We leave there and head north on the Twin Coast Discovery route, planning to stop in Whatuwhiwhi for the night, however a helpful chap at the service station nearby warns us that the road there is easily flooded and more rain is due, so we decide to push on to the Kauri Park campsite some 200 kms further on.
We drove through the impressive Waipoua Forest with many Kauri trees on the way, stopping to look at the biggest (Tāne Mahuta - Lord of the Forest) and the 2nd biggest (Te Matua Ngahere - Father of the Forest) Kauri trees in the world. Te Matua Ngahere has a trunk girth of 16.41m
We just made it to the site at about 8pm to find a social gathering in full swing, to which we weren’t invited, despite Lou enquiring as to the nature of it. Cook tea and go to bed.
We leave there and head north on the Twin Coast Discovery route, planning to stop in Whatuwhiwhi for the night, however a helpful chap at the service station nearby warns us that the road there is easily flooded and more rain is due, so we decide to push on to the Kauri Park campsite some 200 kms further on.
We drove through the impressive Waipoua Forest with many Kauri trees on the way, stopping to look at the biggest (Tāne Mahuta - Lord of the Forest) and the 2nd biggest (Te Matua Ngahere - Father of the Forest) Kauri trees in the world. Te Matua Ngahere has a trunk girth of 16.41m
We just made it to the site at about 8pm to find a social gathering in full swing, to which we weren’t invited, despite Lou enquiring as to the nature of it. Cook tea and go to bed.
Sunday 9 December 2007. Day 111 Russell Top10 Holiday Park
Wake up to the rain and a power cut, spend the morning reading and using the laptop until we get cabin fever and decide to go into town to find some lunch. Pass a few craft shops on the way with some nice bits and pieces in, before deciding on takeaway pizza for lunch (which is made by a chap from Costa Rica). We eat it sitting at the end of the jetty, sheltered from the wind and rain and watch a fishing boat come in as well as a sparrow feeding its baby with pizza crust we throw its way.
After lunch we walked up to the highest point to see the views over the Bay of Islands (which unfortunately wasn’t great due to the weather) plus we saw the flag pole erected after the end of hostilities between Pakeha (white people) and the Maori (although various groups of Maori cut it down several times after that in the 1800s). We wandered back down the hill and back into town to use the internet, before heading back to the van to cook some tea and go to bed with the sound of the rain still playing on the roof of the van.
After lunch we walked up to the highest point to see the views over the Bay of Islands (which unfortunately wasn’t great due to the weather) plus we saw the flag pole erected after the end of hostilities between Pakeha (white people) and the Maori (although various groups of Maori cut it down several times after that in the 1800s). We wandered back down the hill and back into town to use the internet, before heading back to the van to cook some tea and go to bed with the sound of the rain still playing on the roof of the van.
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Saturday 8 December 2007. Day 110 Whangerai Top10 Holiday Park
Stay at the site until 11am, making use of the cheap wireless connection to ensure our computer has all the latest security patches etc, plus trying to ascertain why the waste water overflows into the toilet cubicle and the water pump doesn’t work properly.
We head back to the garage we visited yesterday, we only just catch them as they shut at 12:00. They are unable to find anything wrong but blow some air through the pipes and advise us that the tanks are only big enough to hold 2 thimble fulls of liquid each, extremely useful! This means that if we park on any slight slopes and want to use the water, we may not be able to pump water, or will find the toilet flooded again.
Go into town and do some shopping, including purchasing a new hosepipe as the one provided is only useful if you park the van right next to the tap. Have lunch at a nice cafe, where we are advised how to spend the next few days by a well meaning local. We join the masses of assembled campervan at the Whangerai Falls, which are pretty good (must be all this rain we are being subjected to). We do a loop down to the foot of the falls across the bridge and back up the other side of the bank.
Drive on to Russell in the Bay of Islands, getting the vehicle ferry from Opua to save time. Arrive to find a beautiful small town overlooking the sea, with a lovely harbour and views. Shame about the rain. Set up camp in the Top 10 on a luxury (extra cost) site overlooking the sea. We walk into town for a look around, feed the ducks outside the van, chat to our Dutch neighbours and have the left over spag bol for tea.
We head back to the garage we visited yesterday, we only just catch them as they shut at 12:00. They are unable to find anything wrong but blow some air through the pipes and advise us that the tanks are only big enough to hold 2 thimble fulls of liquid each, extremely useful! This means that if we park on any slight slopes and want to use the water, we may not be able to pump water, or will find the toilet flooded again.
Go into town and do some shopping, including purchasing a new hosepipe as the one provided is only useful if you park the van right next to the tap. Have lunch at a nice cafe, where we are advised how to spend the next few days by a well meaning local. We join the masses of assembled campervan at the Whangerai Falls, which are pretty good (must be all this rain we are being subjected to). We do a loop down to the foot of the falls across the bridge and back up the other side of the bank.
Drive on to Russell in the Bay of Islands, getting the vehicle ferry from Opua to save time. Arrive to find a beautiful small town overlooking the sea, with a lovely harbour and views. Shame about the rain. Set up camp in the Top 10 on a luxury (extra cost) site overlooking the sea. We walk into town for a look around, feed the ducks outside the van, chat to our Dutch neighbours and have the left over spag bol for tea.
Friday 7 December 2007. Day 109 Whangerai Top10 Holiday Park
Wake up to the rain, which continued all day in varying degrees of severity. The whole van feels damp. We make of list of things that we need to buy, this includes things that apparently one doesn’t need for 55 days in a motorhome, such as a chopping board and a colander. We then head to the town centre where we have lunch, before visiting a local garage where we get the passenger side wing mirror fixed (it flapped about uselessly during our journey yesterday), plus a screw to enable us to use our table as something more appropriate than a roundabout.
We complete our purchases after spending all afternoon visiting various different hardware stores, and head back to the camp site. We do some laundry and use our newly purchased articles to prepare spag bol for tea, making a double batch (the saucepans only just being big enough).
We complete our purchases after spending all afternoon visiting various different hardware stores, and head back to the camp site. We do some laundry and use our newly purchased articles to prepare spag bol for tea, making a double batch (the saucepans only just being big enough).
Thursday 6 December 2007. Day 108 Crowne Plaza, Auckland
Pack up our bags and rush to get the train to Sylvia Park shopping Centre in Mount Wellington to get our laptop. The inefficient train system is only about 10 minutes late. We arrive and get our laptop and carry case, plus a sock monkey which Lou takes a fancy to. Back at the hotel Ieuan is tasked with setting the laptop up, whilst Lou continues shopping. Later she sends some stuff home and collects a parcel of items that have been sent out by her mum.
We leave the room later than planned at 2pm after a mad rush to get everything done and head across the city to the campervan depot by taxi. The driver advises us that we need to have left the city by 3:30 to miss the traffic (Ieuan thinks that this’ll be a little ambitious as we’ll need to stock up on provisions once we’ve actually got the camper).
We are given a walkthrough of a van with another British couple, Lou thinks that this and the van next door to it are a bit substandard and so tries to persuade the guy that shows up to hand us our van that he should look for a newer one out the back for us. Unsurprisingly there isn’t one so we have to make do with the old banger as Lou describes it.
Head to the supermarket and stock up, before heading out at about 5:30 into the Auckland rush hour traffic. It take us about 2 hours to do about 15kms. 4 hours later we arrive at our destination Whangerai in the rain, after passing through a lot of low cloud over the lush rolling hills on the way. We sort out the van and make tea, going to bed at about 12:30 absolutely knackered.
We leave the room later than planned at 2pm after a mad rush to get everything done and head across the city to the campervan depot by taxi. The driver advises us that we need to have left the city by 3:30 to miss the traffic (Ieuan thinks that this’ll be a little ambitious as we’ll need to stock up on provisions once we’ve actually got the camper).
We are given a walkthrough of a van with another British couple, Lou thinks that this and the van next door to it are a bit substandard and so tries to persuade the guy that shows up to hand us our van that he should look for a newer one out the back for us. Unsurprisingly there isn’t one so we have to make do with the old banger as Lou describes it.
Head to the supermarket and stock up, before heading out at about 5:30 into the Auckland rush hour traffic. It take us about 2 hours to do about 15kms. 4 hours later we arrive at our destination Whangerai in the rain, after passing through a lot of low cloud over the lush rolling hills on the way. We sort out the van and make tea, going to bed at about 12:30 absolutely knackered.
Wednesday 5 December 2007. Day 107 Crowne Plaza, Auckland
Catch the train to Newmarket a nice little suburb with lots of shops just outside the city centre, where we first have lunch at an Indian stall in a food court. We want to buy a laptop, but find that our chosen model isn’t available, however the shop we are in checks their other store, finding that they have one, which they’ll keep for us until tomorrow. It’s raining outside by now so we run to a few other shops, Lou wants to see if any of the shops here that stock the NZ label Chalky Digits have a top that she liked the look of in a different size. The train back to the city centre is delayed for 15 mins due to some sort of problem, this after standing on the platform in the rain for 45 mins!
In the evening we continue our quest to find the best Thai restaurant (as our trip has been described) in the world visiting a different one which is also award winning. The food is nowhere as good as the one of two nights ago.
In the evening we continue our quest to find the best Thai restaurant (as our trip has been described) in the world visiting a different one which is also award winning. The food is nowhere as good as the one of two nights ago.
Tuesday 4 December 2007. Day 106 Crowne Plaza, Auckland
Sleep in until woken by the maid at 10:30am. Go into town and lounge around the shops. Lou discovers Kathmandu outdoor shop and that they have a sale which starts tomorrow. We look for a cycle hire shop, which we don’t find.
At 7pm we meet Ieuan’s friend Matt in reception, it’s been some time since he left BG expecting me to follow him out the door in a few months and arrive here about a year ago, oh well better late than never. Matt takes us to One Tree Hill where we get fantastic views of the city. From there that we head back to the city centre where Matt steers us towards the Viaduct Basin and a nice restaurant/bar where he and Ieuan order stone grill steaks and Monteiths Summer Ale both of which are excellent & Lou has pizza. Unfortunately we aren’t able to meet Matt’s wife Chantelle as she is busy on a teleconference with her boss based in Europe.
At 7pm we meet Ieuan’s friend Matt in reception, it’s been some time since he left BG expecting me to follow him out the door in a few months and arrive here about a year ago, oh well better late than never. Matt takes us to One Tree Hill where we get fantastic views of the city. From there that we head back to the city centre where Matt steers us towards the Viaduct Basin and a nice restaurant/bar where he and Ieuan order stone grill steaks and Monteiths Summer Ale both of which are excellent & Lou has pizza. Unfortunately we aren’t able to meet Matt’s wife Chantelle as she is busy on a teleconference with her boss based in Europe.
Monday 3 December 2007. Day 105 Qantas Flights, Australia & New Zealand
Flight 1 leaves the super busy Perth airport at 12:15am (we've never seen an airport so busy at this time of night). Flight is ok, Lou gets quite a lot of sleep. We arrive in the Sydney area at about 5:30 but have to use up time waiting for the airport to open at 6, getting permission to be the first plane to use the runway. Flight 2 leaves Sydney at 7:35 for the 3 hour trip to Auckland and being a 767 had a seat configuration of 2,3,2 meaning that both Lou and Ieuan had their choices of seat!
Arrived in Auckland at 12:30 local time, collected our bags and caught a taxi to the Crowne Plaza, which is very central and quite nice. Go to look for some lunch options and to find Poste Restante to pick up the parcel we mailed ourselves before we left the UK to save carrying around a ridiculous number of books etc, have a look around the NZ winemakers shop, then head back to the hotel.
Have tea at the Khao Thai which is really nice, then walk down to the harbour/viaduct basin area, where some of the buildings have been built to resemble ships. There is a large cruise ship docked in the harbour. Wander back to the hotel, knackered after a long 44 hour day.
Arrived in Auckland at 12:30 local time, collected our bags and caught a taxi to the Crowne Plaza, which is very central and quite nice. Go to look for some lunch options and to find Poste Restante to pick up the parcel we mailed ourselves before we left the UK to save carrying around a ridiculous number of books etc, have a look around the NZ winemakers shop, then head back to the hotel.
Have tea at the Khao Thai which is really nice, then walk down to the harbour/viaduct basin area, where some of the buildings have been built to resemble ships. There is a large cruise ship docked in the harbour. Wander back to the hotel, knackered after a long 44 hour day.
Sunday 2 December 2007. Day 104 Travelodge, Perth
Went into town for the final time and were forced to kill half an hour in a cafe waiting until 12pm when all the shops opened (along with most of the population of the city it seemed, who were lined up outside the department store). After shopping for the last items that we know we aren't going to buy elsewhere (and a few that we would) and a spot of lunch we catch a taxi to the AHG driver centre next to Perth Airport, where Lou has booked Ieuan in to drive 5 laps around the track there in a 5.8L V8 Holden Commodore race car under guidance from a racing driver.
Arrived early after an ear bending from our Yugoslav taxi driver Don (he claimed to be Yugoslav as he was part Bosnian & part Serb), Ieuan got suited up in a very flattering race suit and along with 3 other drivers was given an instruction session behind closed doors (the usual sort of track driving/riding advice, listen to the instructor, brake at the braking marker cones, go flat out till you reach them, turn in at the turn in cone, apex at the apex cone, and exit the corner at the exit cone, etc). When they come out Ieuan was the first out on track (Lou has spent the interim time laughing at the inability of the people in their Subarus to keep their cars on track during their learning to drive their own performance car course) and set off for his laps. A camera was mounted behind the driver in the car so the whole thing is recorded, showing Ieuan being such a such a slow driver that the instructor spends most of his time telling him to go faster. Lou spent the time taking pics and trying catch Ieuan with his hairnet on (had to wear one under his helmet, must be to keep all that hair safely under wraps), fortunately for everyone she wasn't quick enough!! Ieuan had a fantastic time.
Back at the hotel we finished packing up, had some tea and left for the airport, amazingly after two months here our time in Australia had come to an end.
Arrived early after an ear bending from our Yugoslav taxi driver Don (he claimed to be Yugoslav as he was part Bosnian & part Serb), Ieuan got suited up in a very flattering race suit and along with 3 other drivers was given an instruction session behind closed doors (the usual sort of track driving/riding advice, listen to the instructor, brake at the braking marker cones, go flat out till you reach them, turn in at the turn in cone, apex at the apex cone, and exit the corner at the exit cone, etc). When they come out Ieuan was the first out on track (Lou has spent the interim time laughing at the inability of the people in their Subarus to keep their cars on track during their learning to drive their own performance car course) and set off for his laps. A camera was mounted behind the driver in the car so the whole thing is recorded, showing Ieuan being such a such a slow driver that the instructor spends most of his time telling him to go faster. Lou spent the time taking pics and trying catch Ieuan with his hairnet on (had to wear one under his helmet, must be to keep all that hair safely under wraps), fortunately for everyone she wasn't quick enough!! Ieuan had a fantastic time.
Back at the hotel we finished packing up, had some tea and left for the airport, amazingly after two months here our time in Australia had come to an end.
Saturday 1 December 2007. Day 103 Travelodge, Perth
Have a lazy day in Perth, just doing a bit of shopping, including purchasing a cd from some street musicians, some laundry and internetting. Both of us are knackered after rushing around in the campervan for 11 days, and then getting up early for our adventure yesterday.
In the evening we go back to Must, certainly our favourite place to eat in Perth, perhaps Australia.
We still have a bottle of wine left to drink from our trip to the Voyager Estate, but no time left to drink it so we'll have to take it with us to New Zealand (despite their advice to drink it before leaving the country, oh well we can't do everything we're told!!).
In the evening we go back to Must, certainly our favourite place to eat in Perth, perhaps Australia.
We still have a bottle of wine left to drink from our trip to the Voyager Estate, but no time left to drink it so we'll have to take it with us to New Zealand (despite their advice to drink it before leaving the country, oh well we can't do everything we're told!!).
Friday 30 November 2007. Day 102 Travelodge, Perth
We're up and out of the hotel by 6:30 am and get picked up by the dolphin tour bus in town at 7:15. Arrive at Rockingham about 8, where we board the boat along with 21 others and are given wetsuits and snorkels. Ieuan passes on the wetsuit, while Lou struggles to get hers on, much to the amusement of Ieuan and our fellow passengers, finally managing to get the thing on fully after a lot of hard work from Ieuan, rolling it up a centimetre at a time! We headed off to look for dolphins and found a group quite quickly, getting into the water in a linked chain to swim with them. The group leader at the front of the chain had a motorised water scooter that helped the group move through the water as quickly and quietly as possible. Lou didn't see any dolphins on her first water excursion, however she did on her second.
When this group of dolphins left (they were also males and therefore not interested in interaction) we moved off in search of other groups. Unfortunately this took a lot longer than we'd hoped for, however after a light lunch provided by a franchise chain of sandwich makers, we found a group of females and Lou had a fantastic experience swimming in amongst 20 or 30 dolphins who were extremely playful and very close, even Ieuan was able to appreciate this from the boat, especially as the sea had become a bit rougher, and the dolphins were riding the swells. After 20 minutes or so with this group it was time to head back to shore, where we decide to have some late lunch, (having turned our noses up at the sandwiches!) while waiting for the film of the day to be edited and copied to dvd and the mini bus home.
That evening we walk up to Kings Park Cafe for tea, as Ieuan had a really great pizza there on our last visit. There was a concert of some description going on in the park, most punters it seemed were arriving by stretch limo, there seemed to be more of them (the limos) than we would have thought it possible for a small city like this to support. On arriving we were told that the pizza had sold out so with little other choice we had to have the burgers. What a disappointing end to a great day.
When this group of dolphins left (they were also males and therefore not interested in interaction) we moved off in search of other groups. Unfortunately this took a lot longer than we'd hoped for, however after a light lunch provided by a franchise chain of sandwich makers, we found a group of females and Lou had a fantastic experience swimming in amongst 20 or 30 dolphins who were extremely playful and very close, even Ieuan was able to appreciate this from the boat, especially as the sea had become a bit rougher, and the dolphins were riding the swells. After 20 minutes or so with this group it was time to head back to shore, where we decide to have some late lunch, (having turned our noses up at the sandwiches!) while waiting for the film of the day to be edited and copied to dvd and the mini bus home.
That evening we walk up to Kings Park Cafe for tea, as Ieuan had a really great pizza there on our last visit. There was a concert of some description going on in the park, most punters it seemed were arriving by stretch limo, there seemed to be more of them (the limos) than we would have thought it possible for a small city like this to support. On arriving we were told that the pizza had sold out so with little other choice we had to have the burgers. What a disappointing end to a great day.
Thursday 29 November 2007. Day 101 Koombana Beach Caravan Park, Bunbury
Pack up and clean the van ready to hand back, then pop into Bunbury for some emailing and internetting. Then we head back to Perth to hand the van back, and for Lou to present the long list of things that have broken or fallen off, to Maui. After some discussion this results in s refund of one days rental, which is as much as we could hope for really. Took a while for us to get to that point though as the girl who served us was a trainee and seemed very unsure how to deal with a complaint. It wasn't helped by the fact that Lou was in a really bad mood, as at that point she thought that she'd lost her camera and about 3000 pics (we later found it safe and sound and had dvd back ups made).
Back at the Travelodge, we check in and go to town for some lunch at David Jones. Do some shopping and pack up a parcel to send home. That night we eat at 9 Mary's Indian restaurant which isn't as god as the last time we were here, before wandering back and falling into bed absolutely shattered.
We had covered 4652kms in this camper, plus the 5163kms from before equals a grand total of 9815kms covered by campervan in Australia.
Back at the Travelodge, we check in and go to town for some lunch at David Jones. Do some shopping and pack up a parcel to send home. That night we eat at 9 Mary's Indian restaurant which isn't as god as the last time we were here, before wandering back and falling into bed absolutely shattered.
We had covered 4652kms in this camper, plus the 5163kms from before equals a grand total of 9815kms covered by campervan in Australia.
Wednesday 28 November 2007. Day 100 Koombana Beach Caravan Park, Bunbury
Lou up early as she's not feeling well. We decide to go for a walk along the beach and end up at the nearby dolphin discovery centre and go in. After looking at the very modest display boards we head down to the part of the beach called the dolphin interaction zone and wait for the dolphins to appear. A mother and calf arrive and we wade in to till the water reaches above our knees. The calf has a shark bite just below its dorsal fin and so spends a lot of time thrashing about, apparently this is because it is angry and in pain. Unfortunately once the dolphins are gone we realise that the tide has come in a bit further and the items in Ieuan's pockets are now wet! The wallet was recoverable but the phone no longer works.
Later we go into town and have an ok lunch at a Thai restaurant, food is adequate (although Ieuan is slightly when the response to his request for is dish to be spicy, is a question about whether he's had really spicy food like they make here before, the result it would appear is that they add more dried chilli flakes to the already prepared curry), Lou's not keen on the cockroach in the ladies toilet!
On the way back to the van we walk passed the entrance to the marina and Ieuan spots a large ray foraging in the shallows, which we watch for a while before it speeds gracefully off.
Cook spag bol for tea, ending up with a super large mountain of food due to the fact that the beef only seems to be sold in large packs plus we have to use up everything that we can, so we have a whole block of parmesan as well.
Later we go into town and have an ok lunch at a Thai restaurant, food is adequate (although Ieuan is slightly when the response to his request for is dish to be spicy, is a question about whether he's had really spicy food like they make here before, the result it would appear is that they add more dried chilli flakes to the already prepared curry), Lou's not keen on the cockroach in the ladies toilet!
On the way back to the van we walk passed the entrance to the marina and Ieuan spots a large ray foraging in the shallows, which we watch for a while before it speeds gracefully off.
Cook spag bol for tea, ending up with a super large mountain of food due to the fact that the beef only seems to be sold in large packs plus we have to use up everything that we can, so we have a whole block of parmesan as well.
Tuesday 27 November 2007. Day 99 Wave Rock Caravan Park, Hyden
Get up and visit Wave Rock first thing (about 10:30) since it was only a stone's throw from the campsite. Lou buys a fly net to escape the evil flies. The rock itself was really good, we climb up one side and got some great views over the area, mostly scrub and dry salt lakes. There is an eerie whistling/blowing sound made by the wind (the sort of sound that is used in films of storms in the Arctic/Antarctic). Walk along the trail to Hippo's Yawn (another rock feature) and take some photos. Pass two large lizards (perhaps bob tailed as they had really stumpy tails), also saw a big parrot and some smaller lizards on the rock.
Visit the tourist info centre, which doubles as a very strange shop which sells lots of tat and a lace museum. Get directions to the rabbit proof fence, which is 60km to the east and head there in the van. Unfortunately after 35kms we hit unsealed road and can't carry on in the van. Go back and visit The Humps and Mulgas Cave which involved 1.5km of very corrugated unsealed road (this may explain why a cupboard door fell off later that day).
We leave Hyden and hot foot it to Bunbury to try and arrive before the camp office closes at 6pm. Stop for a quick photo of the giant ram at Wagin and pass through the town that seems obsessed with donkeys, having a cartoon donkey as its emblem plus numerous donkey sculptures.
Reach Bunbury at 6:15 (the office is still open and people seem to arrive until gone 8pm despite what they told us) and set up camp for a 2 day stay in our requested pitch overlooking the beach. Chat to our Austrian neighbours also in a Maui van.
Visit the tourist info centre, which doubles as a very strange shop which sells lots of tat and a lace museum. Get directions to the rabbit proof fence, which is 60km to the east and head there in the van. Unfortunately after 35kms we hit unsealed road and can't carry on in the van. Go back and visit The Humps and Mulgas Cave which involved 1.5km of very corrugated unsealed road (this may explain why a cupboard door fell off later that day).
We leave Hyden and hot foot it to Bunbury to try and arrive before the camp office closes at 6pm. Stop for a quick photo of the giant ram at Wagin and pass through the town that seems obsessed with donkeys, having a cartoon donkey as its emblem plus numerous donkey sculptures.
Reach Bunbury at 6:15 (the office is still open and people seem to arrive until gone 8pm despite what they told us) and set up camp for a 2 day stay in our requested pitch overlooking the beach. Chat to our Austrian neighbours also in a Maui van.
Monday 26 November 2007. Day 98 Esperance Bay Holiday Park
Left the campsite in the drizzle and stopped at computer alley to use the internet before driving out to Lucky Bay in the Cape Le Grand National Park 70kms away, reputedly the most beautiful beach in Australia. Lou dipped her toes in the cold sea. The sand was the consistency of wet flour all over the beach and was very white. Drove back to Esperance and went along the scenic coastal drive, seeing some nice beaches and cliffs before arriving at the famous Pink Lake. However it wasn't pink at all, whether this was due to the time of year, the weather, who knows, but it was a disappointment although at least we've seen amazing pink water before. Saw a dead snake in the parking bay where we had lunch.
Retraced our steps of yesterday to Ravensthorpe along some really windy stretches of open roads, passing some road trains and arriving in good time. From there we push on towards Wave Rock at Hyden, driving over one dead lizard and one live one which passed between the wheels but it looked a bit shaken up once we'd passed over him, so perhaps he'd become just another road kill statistic.
Arrived at the Wave Rock campsite and checked in choosing our site amongst the resident 8 million flies. Emptied the waste receptacles. Cooked chicken curry for tea. As we went out to wash up after tea, we saw a small fox scavenging. Wrote some postcards and Christmas cards and went to bed.
Retraced our steps of yesterday to Ravensthorpe along some really windy stretches of open roads, passing some road trains and arriving in good time. From there we push on towards Wave Rock at Hyden, driving over one dead lizard and one live one which passed between the wheels but it looked a bit shaken up once we'd passed over him, so perhaps he'd become just another road kill statistic.
Arrived at the Wave Rock campsite and checked in choosing our site amongst the resident 8 million flies. Emptied the waste receptacles. Cooked chicken curry for tea. As we went out to wash up after tea, we saw a small fox scavenging. Wrote some postcards and Christmas cards and went to bed.
Sunday 25 November 2007. Day 97 Albany Caravan Park
Leave the campsite in the drizzle & clouds to drive round the scenic coastal cliffs, stopping at natural rock attractions, The Bridge which is nice and The Gap which is much more impressive, as huge waves pound and break in the narrow gap between the cliffs. Watched a group of tourists arrive and traipse up the rocks, some in completely inappropriate footwear, wait 2 minutes and then wander off, hardly seeing anything, the most impressive breakers came about every 10 minutes. Next we walked down 78 steps on an 800m walk to the blowholes. The waves were big enough for some water to get blown up, but not enough to catch on camera, the noise however was pretty impressive and quite eerie. We walked back up the trail, stopping to talk to a couple who had just got off the huge cruise ship in the port. They were from the Gold Coast and were on a 28 day cruise around Australia.
The fact that the ship was docked meant that all the shops in town were open, when they are usually closed on a Sunday, so we go to Coles and stock up on food.
Drive onwards to Esperance stopping for lunch in a parking bay on the way, reaching Esperance after 5 hours in the van (477km), a number of overtaking manoeuvres, lots of dead roos and one live snake. Arrive at our campsite and put up the awning, by which time 4 noisy trains have gone passed only a stones throw away. We realise we are at the port end of town. We are besieged by flies.
The fact that the ship was docked meant that all the shops in town were open, when they are usually closed on a Sunday, so we go to Coles and stock up on food.
Drive onwards to Esperance stopping for lunch in a parking bay on the way, reaching Esperance after 5 hours in the van (477km), a number of overtaking manoeuvres, lots of dead roos and one live snake. Arrive at our campsite and put up the awning, by which time 4 noisy trains have gone passed only a stones throw away. We realise we are at the port end of town. We are besieged by flies.
Saturday 24 November 2007. Day 96 Margaret River Dump Site
We pack up and leave the inner city camp site as soon as we can, stopping in town to use the internet and do some shopping, before visiting a few more wineries. The first stop is Pierro, which is in a lovely setting and we get a nice bottle of their Cabernet, Merlot and ltcf (little touch of cabernet franc) blend. Next we visit the local chocolate factory, before we head back into MR for a spot of lunch at the sandwich shop. After lunch we head south stopping at the Voyager Estate winery, a very impressive place, with beautiful buildings, rose gardens and row, upon row of vines. Inside was a nice shop and highly recommended restaurant. The people were nice and we ended up with two bottles of the limited release Cabernet/Merlot 1999 for $60 a piece - delicious. Took a number of pics before heading off.
We head to Albany on the south coast for the night, driving 300km along a very quiet road, passing the odd car as hurtle along at 120kph, passing anything in sight. Unfortunately the luck isn't with the lizards today and one meets its fate after hanging around in the middle of the road. Later we manage to hit at least one of a flock of birds that spends just that little bit too long eating some previous road kill, most of it ends up on the back of the passenger wing mirror. Lou completes a very hairy overtaking manoeuvre to pass a camper that clearly has no intention of either arriving anywhere before the end of the century or allowing us to do the same, so that we can arrive at our nice Albany campsite by the prescribed 7pm. Cooked spag bol, and thankfully discovered just in time that the Australian produced parmesan cheese was absolutely revolting.
We head to Albany on the south coast for the night, driving 300km along a very quiet road, passing the odd car as hurtle along at 120kph, passing anything in sight. Unfortunately the luck isn't with the lizards today and one meets its fate after hanging around in the middle of the road. Later we manage to hit at least one of a flock of birds that spends just that little bit too long eating some previous road kill, most of it ends up on the back of the passenger wing mirror. Lou completes a very hairy overtaking manoeuvre to pass a camper that clearly has no intention of either arriving anywhere before the end of the century or allowing us to do the same, so that we can arrive at our nice Albany campsite by the prescribed 7pm. Cooked spag bol, and thankfully discovered just in time that the Australian produced parmesan cheese was absolutely revolting.
Thursday, December 6, 2007
Friday 23 November 2007. Day 95 Koombana Bay Holiday Resort, Bunbury
Drive down to Busselton, where we walk out along the 1.8km jetty to an underwater observatory. We see starfish, barnacles and huge shoals of fish, before walking back and stopping for lunch at the Goose cafe/restaurant on the edge of the beach. We are served huge
portions of good quality beef/snapper, which we are barely able to touch the surface of.
From Bussleton we head further south to the Margaret River region to sample some wine. We stop at Willespie where we go upstairs in an old wooden building and chat to the bloke about driving in north WA. We buy a bottle and move on, next stop is Sandalford, where we are served by a woman from Devon who claims to speak 643 languages and is very full of herself. Finally we stop at Vasse Felix, a lovely site with sculptures by the dozen and a large pond. We buy a bottle of wine plus a nice WA photo book which came in a very nice woven Vasse Felix bag.
As it's now 5pm and the wineries are now all closed, we head for Margaret River town to set up camp. Our prefered choice is full so we end up on the down and out site at the other end of town which seems to be full of rednecks and 'schoolies'. The chicken we intend to eat for tea has gone off, so we walk to Coles for more, with Ieuan being told off for drinking his ginger beer in front of the schoolies, they thought it was alcohol - as if!!
The van parked on the site behind us decides to drive out past our van with about half a mosquito on either side to spare, rather than reversing out of their site. Ieuan not very impressed by the state of the men's toilets, guessing that perhaps these schoolies have yet to learn what the handle on the side of the cistern is for!
Site has 24hr security, the first such precaution we've seen.
PS Schoolies seem to be aged about 17.
portions of good quality beef/snapper, which we are barely able to touch the surface of.
From Bussleton we head further south to the Margaret River region to sample some wine. We stop at Willespie where we go upstairs in an old wooden building and chat to the bloke about driving in north WA. We buy a bottle and move on, next stop is Sandalford, where we are served by a woman from Devon who claims to speak 643 languages and is very full of herself. Finally we stop at Vasse Felix, a lovely site with sculptures by the dozen and a large pond. We buy a bottle of wine plus a nice WA photo book which came in a very nice woven Vasse Felix bag.
As it's now 5pm and the wineries are now all closed, we head for Margaret River town to set up camp. Our prefered choice is full so we end up on the down and out site at the other end of town which seems to be full of rednecks and 'schoolies'. The chicken we intend to eat for tea has gone off, so we walk to Coles for more, with Ieuan being told off for drinking his ginger beer in front of the schoolies, they thought it was alcohol - as if!!
The van parked on the site behind us decides to drive out past our van with about half a mosquito on either side to spare, rather than reversing out of their site. Ieuan not very impressed by the state of the men's toilets, guessing that perhaps these schoolies have yet to learn what the handle on the side of the cistern is for!
Site has 24hr security, the first such precaution we've seen.
PS Schoolies seem to be aged about 17.
Thursday 22 November 2007. Day 94 Dongarra Holiday Park
Leave Dongarra (taking a pic of the giant lobster on the way out of town) and drive the 360kms to Perth in 3.5 hours, stopping at several sets of roadworks and getting stuck behind a number of slow vehicles. Spot a 'Wicked' campervan that we had passed the day before as well as 'Snotty Pig' a road train we'd seen going the opposite way a day or so before, plus a huge number of oversize loads.
We bypassed the centre of Perth stopping a hundreds of traffic lights before going down the recently built motorway and headed for Bunbury. On the way we stopped at the Peel Estate vineyard near Peel Inlet, where we purchased a bottle of cabernet sauvignon to drink that night. Arrived at Bunbury at a very nice campsite and set up for the night, putting up our awning for the first time (it seems to be half sized) and got the camping chairs out, one of which seemed to be broken to the point it was hardly useable (another great piece of workmanship on our crappy old van). Have a wander over the road to the beach before eating dinner and going to bed.
We bypassed the centre of Perth stopping a hundreds of traffic lights before going down the recently built motorway and headed for Bunbury. On the way we stopped at the Peel Estate vineyard near Peel Inlet, where we purchased a bottle of cabernet sauvignon to drink that night. Arrived at Bunbury at a very nice campsite and set up for the night, putting up our awning for the first time (it seems to be half sized) and got the camping chairs out, one of which seemed to be broken to the point it was hardly useable (another great piece of workmanship on our crappy old van). Have a wander over the road to the beach before eating dinner and going to bed.
Wednesday 21 November 2007. Day 93 Monkey Mia Resort
Head down to the beach for 7:30am to see if the resident wild dolphins turn up for their morning fish. We wait eagerly with about 150 others on the cool beach, peering out to sea & watching the pelicans on the beach. Soon the dolphins turn up, along with a 6 day old calf and start hooning around in front of us, chasing each other and catching fish. Noramally we would be allowed into the water, but beacuse there is a calf we are not, apparently if the mother swam too close to us the calf could become confused and attach itself to us. Instead the 3 volunteers from the centre wade out to thigh deep with a bucket of fish and then choose random people to come out and take a fish to give to the dolphin at that spot (only female dolphins are fed), luckily both of us are chosen and get the opportunity to feed a dolphin. The dolphin calf has to swim constantly for the first 30 days of it's life, meaning it's mother will have to do the same to protect it.
Afterwards we use the ridiculous internet kiosk and then get on the road. We drive solidly at 130kph back down south for the next 4 hours, stopping at the stromatolites on the way, where we walk 1.5kms in the intense heat to view the stromatolites from a boardwalk, not realising that we are covered in salt from the partly de-salinated water that was used in the showers at the campsite, Lou burns her arms in the 40 minutes we were out of the camper. There are yet more flies constantly harassing us. We push on, arriving at Geraldton after narrowly missing another lizard, and stop for a late lunch, eating it in front of a picturesque beach, although unfortunately we seem to have happened upon ther local area for 'business' judging by the dubious activity from the occupants of the car next door. From there we make the short trip (65kms) to Dongara to camp for the night, almost seeing an accident close up as 2 4wd utes tried to overtake us and the car in front not noticing the car coming in the other direction, which meant that they both had to swerve off the road onto the verge on the opposite side of the road.
Afterwards we use the ridiculous internet kiosk and then get on the road. We drive solidly at 130kph back down south for the next 4 hours, stopping at the stromatolites on the way, where we walk 1.5kms in the intense heat to view the stromatolites from a boardwalk, not realising that we are covered in salt from the partly de-salinated water that was used in the showers at the campsite, Lou burns her arms in the 40 minutes we were out of the camper. There are yet more flies constantly harassing us. We push on, arriving at Geraldton after narrowly missing another lizard, and stop for a late lunch, eating it in front of a picturesque beach, although unfortunately we seem to have happened upon ther local area for 'business' judging by the dubious activity from the occupants of the car next door. From there we make the short trip (65kms) to Dongara to camp for the night, almost seeing an accident close up as 2 4wd utes tried to overtake us and the car in front not noticing the car coming in the other direction, which meant that they both had to swerve off the road onto the verge on the opposite side of the road.
Tuesday 20 November 2007. Day 92 Dongara Tourist Park
Wake up at 8am after a chilly night's sleep. Leave Dongara and head to Geraldtown, where we stop for diesel, which is served by two assistants, who also clean our windscreen and give us directions to Coles supermarket, where we buy some new sheets for the bed and a few further items of food.
After several hundred kilomteres of driving through arid scrub land towards kalbarri we take the coastal road, passing Hutt Lagoon, a bright pink lake (which we discover later is caused by an algae that tolerates the salt water) that looked amazing, unfortunately neither of us has a polarizing filter so the pictures aren't as good as the real thing. As we approached Kalbarri we drove down to some of the gorges and other sights in the coastline which was nice, although the flies were pretty bad.
In Kalbarri we stopped and had a nice lunch at a cafe, then drove out the in land route, stopping at some more gorges on the way. Unfortunately we weren't able to visit some as we were advised not to take our two wheel drive camper up the unsealed roads.
After driving hard and fast, at somewhere between 120 & 140 kph for the next 2.5 hours, covering 350kms, going 64kms along a completely straight stretch of road with no bends and 22kms at one point without seeing another vehicle, we arrived at Monkey Mia in Shark Bay just before dark. We wandered down to the beach for a look before settling in for the night.
After several hundred kilomteres of driving through arid scrub land towards kalbarri we take the coastal road, passing Hutt Lagoon, a bright pink lake (which we discover later is caused by an algae that tolerates the salt water) that looked amazing, unfortunately neither of us has a polarizing filter so the pictures aren't as good as the real thing. As we approached Kalbarri we drove down to some of the gorges and other sights in the coastline which was nice, although the flies were pretty bad.
In Kalbarri we stopped and had a nice lunch at a cafe, then drove out the in land route, stopping at some more gorges on the way. Unfortunately we weren't able to visit some as we were advised not to take our two wheel drive camper up the unsealed roads.
After driving hard and fast, at somewhere between 120 & 140 kph for the next 2.5 hours, covering 350kms, going 64kms along a completely straight stretch of road with no bends and 22kms at one point without seeing another vehicle, we arrived at Monkey Mia in Shark Bay just before dark. We wandered down to the beach for a look before settling in for the night.
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