Thursday 13 September 2007. Day 24. La Vila Loti, Siem Reap.

Last full day in Siem Reap today – Mr Dara the tuk tuk driver is taking us to the temples again – an arrangement which caused a great deal of amusement to the local tuk tuk drivers when we discussed it – we soon realised why when he didn’t turn up as agreed at 11am and had to be summoned (from his bed we think!) at quarter past!

Went to Banteay Srei temple 35km away, and the landmine museum (the legacy of so much war is that the countryside is full of mines, the museum is testament to the story of Aki Ra, who as a child was forced to lay mines and now spends his life clearing them - see http://www.cambodialandminemuseum.org/history.html for further info) where we bought some scarves and books about survivors stories, and stopped at Srang Srah on the way back, where Lou was roped into the purchase of some grubby postcards, some bracelets and bronze elephants. Ieuan had had enough of tuk tuk-ing by the time we got home at 1.30pm having spent most of the morning being overtaken by trucks, 4wd’s and various other vehicles. Was great to see some village life outside of the temple area – woodsellers, fishing boys, rice paddies etc.

Got Mr Dara to take us into town for lunch at our usual spot, then went back to the hotel to be picked up for our foot massage (or so we though!) at 5pm. A car picked us up and took us to the massage place, where we marked our areas of “fatigue” on a drawing of the body and were given a pair of oversized pyjamas each to put on in a room with 2 low mattresses. 2 young Cambodian ladies came in and scrubbed our feet, and then proceeded to push, pull, prod, squeeze and stretch our whole bodies for the next hour – which felt good at times and painful at others! Lou made mental note to remind Ieuan of the enforced Cambodian torture massage the next time he complains about shopping (the massage was he choice!). We finish with cold tea and a weird jelly like sweet which Ieuan gamely eats but Lou can’t bring herself to. It remains unidentified to this day. Went to the Foreigh Correspondents club restaurant (which is open but the hotel isn’t) for dinner, which was delicious.